Tuesday —- Ohio River to the Cumberland River

September 14th, 2010 john

Day: 455   Miles Today: 49   Locks Today:  02   Total Miles:  5386   Total Locks: 146

It was a beautiful sunrise.  I woke up early and told the lockmaster that all the pleasure boats had agreed to be ready by 7:00 a.m.  We were hoping upon hope that he would find a way to let us go through because there were still over 20 barge groups waiting.  This lock has two chambers, the main chamber and an old smaller, auxiliary chamber.  The commercial traffic will go through either one but most of the tows prefer the larger chamber because they do not have to break down their tows as much. 

The lock master called and told us to get ready.  He was locking up a towboat and we would be next in the auxiliary lock.

We all up anchored and moved over into position to enter.  At 0800 we were all tied in the lock.  We were very lucky.

Then up the Ohio we went, a string of four boats.  We passed the mouth of the Tennessee River.  We had called the Kentucky Dam on the Tennessee and they were backlogged as expected, so we continued straight for another 20 miles and turned into the Cumberland River.  At this point in the geography, the two rivers run parallel and are very close together, forming the “Land Between the Lakes” region in Kentucky.

Turning onto the Cumberland put us into a very narrow river with a lot of down current and we were fighting upstream.  Our speed made good was about 7.2 mph.  I felt like I was driving an Armadillo.  The river wound back and forth and was pretty clean without debris.

Then at mile 3 of the river we came around a sharp turn and there was a towboat with all of its barges.  It was stuck hard aground.  It must have tried to take the sharp turn too close and was aground and could not get off.  One boat at at time we decided to try to get around it very slowly. Of course I had the deepest draft at 5 feet. I will enclose a lot of pictures but they can’t relate the anxiety of making the pass. 

We went around the front of the towboat, keeping our boat within a couple of feet of the barge, reading the depth meter all the way.  Then at the far corner of the tow we had to turn ninety degrees to the left so as not to hit the bank and go up along the side of the tow.

Wow, was it a good feeling being safely around. 

Twenty more miles and we were in Barkley Lock.  Again we had good fortune, they opened up just as well pulled up and in.  This lock is one of the Federal locks that are used on the Tennessee, Cumberland, and Tombigbee systems.  They are very big, and have floating bollards that you pull up to and tie.  This system is much better then having to handle the lock lines.  It was a 57 foot rise and we were amazed at how fast it was and how smooth.  It was just like being on an elevator. 

The lock opens up into beautiful Barkley Lake.  And then within a mile was Green Turtle Bay Marina.  It is very large and very modern.  We safely tied up.  It was great to have the Mississippi and Ohio Rivers behind us.  We are now on our home waters.

Nine of us loopers went out to eat at Patti’s 1980s Settlement Restaurant in the local village of Grand Rivers.  They sent out a van to pick us up and drive us back.  It was a good night out with good friends.  Patti’s is famous for their two inch thick pork chops.  Again, very good!

Afterwards we came back to the marina and grouped for a drink at the marina gazebo.

We are still on track to arrive back at our home marina Aqua Harbour on Sunday afternoon somewhere between 3 and 6 in the afternoon.  Bring the beer and cigars!!!!!

(I guess I may have to wait to hear what the mechanic says.  We could be delayed for parts.)

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Monday —- Diversion Cut to Ohio River

September 13th, 2010 john

Day: 454   Miles Today: 91   Locks Today:  01   Total Miles:  5337   Total Locks: 144

At seven in the morning engines were started and anchors were up.  Out into the Mississippi we went.  Again it was swift.  It looked as though the water had risen overnight which meant more debris would be washed off the banks.  It was a full morning of dodge‘em.  We had 50 miles left of the Mississippi and I looked forward to getting off it.

As we approached the Ohio, I called the first lock master (about 20 miles away) and he said that there was a safe anchorage just below his lock, but that if we could make it we should continue another 21 miles to the second lock and anchor just below it.  That way we could get through the lock in the morning and make it to our destination with no problem.

Then we made the turn into the Ohio.  The red and green markers switch sides because now we were heading upstream on the Ohio.  Out speed changed also.  We went from 12 – 13 mph to 7.2 mph.  It felt like we were crawling.  The goods news however was there was much less debris and the waters were calm.  What a joy.

There were even more barges.   But the good news was that the river was wide, so passing was not a problem.

We continued to the first lock and the wickets were down. (Wicket locks are in the up mode to trap water when the water is low, but when the water is high they don’t need them so they lower them and you float right over the dam. This was great for us; no waiting.

Then by 5:00 we reached the second damn.  To say the least, it was backlogged.  There were about 30 or more towboats with their large loads.  They were staged on either side of the river.  Per the lockmaster’s instructions, we went under the Interstate Bridge and halfway between it and the lock we turned to starboard toward the Kentucky side and eased our way to shore until we were in 10 feet of water, then dropped anchor.  It was a great open anchorage and made for a good sleeping night.

Throughout the day we kept doing engine checks and keeping a sharp eye on the temperature readings for the starboard engine.  It was leaking but the temps never went high.  I am hoping that I just have a gasket leaking, but it needs to be watched  because we could loose the entire engine if it overheats. I have called Green Turtle Bay and asked for a mechanic’s services on Wednesday morning.

Tomorrow we continue up the Ohio then pass the Tennessee River and turn onto the Cumberland River.  It is shorter and more direct to turn up the Tennessee, however the Kentucky Lock at the base of the river is very, very backlogged with commercial traffic and the lockmasters are not known for their cooperation with the pleasure craft. 

We will turn up the Cumberland, go through Barkley Lock and then arrive at Green Turtle Bay Marina.  At least that is the current plan.

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Sunday —- Hoppie’s to Diversion Cut

September 12th, 2010 john

Day: 453   Miles Today: 110   Locks Today:  00  Total Miles:  5246   Total Locks: 143

Yesterday afternoon while at Hoppie’s Marina, it was suggested by Fern that we visit the town restaurant for dinner.  Then we found out that the restaurant closed at 5:00 p.m.

So at 4:00 p.m. Gary, Maggie and I hiked it a quarter of a mile into the town of Kimmswick, MO.  There were some cute little shops around a four block area with a famous restaurant in the middle called The Blue Owl.  In fact the restaurant was not so little when we turned the corner and saw all of the parked cars.  It was all homemade food with a complete bakery attached to the restaurant.  Mary the proprietor has become very famous and even receives visits from Paula Dean.  

I had chicken fried steak and it was superb.   Afterwards we walked around the little town looking at shops.  As I walked out of my fourth shop, a golf cart pulled up along side of me.  It was Fern from the marina.  I had left my Great Loop hat and my camera on a chair in the restaurant and knowing that they close at 5:00 Fern went up to retrieve it for me.  Now that is what I call service. (Notice I skipped the part about how stupid I was in forgetting it in the first place.)

Back at the marina, I sat down with Fern and a few others and just chatted while sitting there on the banks of the Mississippi River.  She soon told me some of the history of the area, how the town got its name.  The town was a little thriving river town specializing in trading goods and a re-supply point for the old wood fired paddlewheels that came up and down the river.  Of special interest was the fact that just in front of where Hoppie’s barge docks are tied is the spot where right under the water on the same bank is a 140 foot wooden Union gunboat.  The gunboat had gotten stranded there in the ice and had been crushed and sunk.  Fern and her husband have been running this “marina” for over 37 years, and she knows the rivers.

Well, back to the saga.

We were up at predawn and on our way.  This was going to be the most miles we have traveled in one day.  We were going to try for 110 miles, no stops, no marinas, nothing but river until the Little Diversion cutoff, whatever that is.

It was a sunny clear day.  And looking down the river was amazing.  The Mississippi is truly a “mighty” river.  Again we were traveling at 12 plus mph which is fast for a trawler.  The Corp of Engineers have built many wing dams that stick out from the side of the river, just below the water.  But if you are religious and stay in the channel you are fine.  They have also built the bend-weir dams deep into the river banks on the big turns (bends) of the river.  These help erosion, etc.  However, their effect is to create large whirlpools of water.

We went around a bend and mile mark 130 that Fern had warned us about.  She said: “stay to the red buoy side of the channel and don’t let yourself meet a towboat while in that channel.”  She was right.  The bend was all whirlpools and bubbling water.  The Emery El has a full keel below the boat (bow to stern) and she reacts to the currents.

We twisted left, then right.  It was a fulltime steering job.  Then we hit one big whirlpool and the Emery El turned with the swirl so abruptly that she suddenly leaned over about 30 degrees.  The boat was fine but we completely unloaded the refrigerator onto the floor.  Broke two bottles of beer and one can of beer.  Well, the boat does not smell like a cigar anymore.

We came down the river and met towboat after towboat.  We are fortunate to have our AIS computer system that shows them coming on the chart.  It also shows us their name so each time I call them and ask how they would like to pass.  They will respond with “Ill take you on the 2’s (or 1’s).  That is old river talk left over from the days when they used ships whistles to communicate.  On the 1’s means on my port side of my boat; on the 2’s is starboard.

As we were coming down the river it was a constant steering challenge.  The river is full of debris, limbs, logs, full trees, rubber tires, etc.  You need to steer around them and you are moving so fast it is hard at times.  We thought we were doing a good job when all of a sudden THUMP-THUMP, we hit something.  Darn, after 5000 miles and almost home, we hit something and I think that it damaged my starboard prop.  I now have a vibration.

We did a thorough boat check and all is well except for the vibration.  It is only at high rpm’s, so it will probably be ok until we get back home.  I will have to pull the boat and get the props retuned.

When doing our engine check, we noticed that we had dropped some liquid from the starboard engine.  It just never stops.  Gary and I spent some time looking at it and determined that it was antifreeze from the internal cooling system on the engine.  We wiped it all up, tightened hose-clamps, etc and filled it back up.  We will have to monitor it as we travel.

At 5:00 we approached our designated anchorage at Diversion Channel.  It is a little channel that connects to the Mississippi, big enough to anchor about eight boats.  The challenge was to get into the cut.  It just so happened that there was a dead tree lying right in the middle of the opening.  Also our instructions were to pass the opening and then come back into it from the downstream side.  I swung the boat around and approached slowly.   “Slowly” is a funny word.  I was almost at full throttle but barely moving upstream.  Then when I tipped the bow toward the inlet the boat would start to slide to shore.  I had to point the boat one way and let it slide into the cut.  Once in the cut it was dead calm and a great anchorage.

We all anchored in a row with both bow and stern anchors.  The stern anchor stopped us from swinging and getting close to the bank.  That night all the boaters got in their dinghies and came over to the Emery El to celebrate a good day and to plan for tomorrow.  We had nine people and it was fun.

We were unsure of where we would go the next day.  Fern at Hoppie’s said for us to wait until we got near the first lock on the Ohio and then to call the lock master.  He would be a good source for where to anchor.  The group designated me to call the lock when we got close to the Mississippi and Ohio juncture. 

We slept well in the comfortable anchorage.

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Saturday —- Mississippi River, Alton IL to Hoppie’s

September 11th, 2010 john

Day: 452   Miles Today: 44   Locks Today:  02   Total Miles:  5136   Total Locks: 143

We left at sunrise for our start down the Mississippi.  This is where the trip starts to get dicey. We were traveling fast again and at one point we reached 13.7 mph for a few minutes. I think that may be a speed record for the Emery El.

We immediately came upon our first lock and I had called ahead to see how busy it was.  The lock master said come on down and I will have it open for you.  That sure was nice, right in we went and were able to float in the middle of the lock as it went down.  There were piles and piles of debris in the lock so when we exited we had to be careful not to get anything stuck in our props.

About 15 miles later we came to our second lock.  Again, the lockmaster was good to us and left the lock open for us to immediately enter.  When the lock opened after the drop, there was an up-bound tow waiting just outside of the lock with another one coming up behind it.  We were extremely lucky to have gotten through both locks so quickly.

South of the second lock we entered the St Louis area.  Talk about towboats!  They were all over the place.  We passed through the downtown St Louis area and got pictures of the famous St Louis Arch.  But would you believe that there is not one marina in St Louis.  Not one gas dock.  Simply put no recreational boating is done there.

South of St Louis the river becomes very rural.  Then at MM 158.5 we hit the last spot to stop, spend the night, and get fuel.  The name of this place is called Hoppie’s.  It is written up in all the books.  The place is run by a lady named Fern and she is THE travel authority for this part of the river.

Hoppie’s has 600 feet of barges chained to the side of the river and you can stop here for a fee.  The current is something fierce so you must go downstream and then turn and come back up against the current.  The boat won’t make it upstream at idle so you have to power up to the dock.  The approach is a bit scary.  Here you are revving each engine pointing the boat one way and then having it slip sideways to the dock.  We made it.  It sure was a good feeling to have made it without incident and to be safely tied.  You should see the logs and trees floating downstream past us.

At 2:00 p.m. Fern held court.  She gathered all the boat captains and spoke about the rest of the trip down the Mississippi and up the Ohio.  There are no marinas so you have to find yourself a place to anchor.  At her suggestion tomorrow will be a 110 mile day down the Mississippi.  This river has been engineered with wing dams that jut out into the sides of the river about a foot underwater to help control the flow of the river. They also have a different kind of dam that is about 10 foot under the water.  These help the tow traffic but cause big whirlpools of current.  Oh, what fun!

It looks like we will be anchoring for the next three nights.  Wish us luck, trying to find a safe place, out of the way of the barges, and with enough space for several boats.

If any of you are counting, it looks like we will arrive back at Aqua Harbor on Pickwick and will “cross our wake” on Sunday, Sept 19th.  Of course that could change with unplanned stops or weather interruptions. I will start trying to keep you posted as we get closer.

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Friday —- Grafton to Alton IL

September 10th, 2010 john

Day: 451   Miles Today: 15   Locks Today:  00   Total Miles:  5092   Total Locks: 141

We had a lazy start today because it was to be a short day.  Several of the boats left this a.m. and were headed to Hoppie’s but I wanted to stop and see Alton.

When we backed out of the Grafton Marina and turned around to head south we were immediately in the Mississippi River.   This of course is a landmark moment.  And yes, the current was swift.  We ran at our normal 1800 RPM but we were doing over 12 mph. 

The Alton marina was very special.  It had plenty of room and had an easy entrance to navigate.  It had a little marina store and the showers were the best yet on the trip.  It again had the office, restrooms, showers, and even the pool all located on a floating dock to enable it all to rise and fall with the river.

We walked into town.  Even though it was a small old town it had impressive architecture.  All of the buildings were decorated with care.  We walked down hill almost 10 blocks.  It they have one central theme it was antiques.  There were shops after shops after shops.  If you are ever in the search for old antiques, I would recommend Alton.

In the middle of town there was a square where they had life size statues of Lincoln and Douglas.  This is where they had their seventh and last debate.  It was this debate that launched Lincoln into the presidency.

Then it was 10 blocks back up hill.  We had found out that they had a “memorable” restaurant in town.  We thought it was only four more block past the marina but it turned out to be about eight.  “Fast Eddies” turned out to be a special treat. 

It was about 4:00 p.m. on a Friday afternoon and the restaurant was full of people.  As it turned out it was more of a bar, with an inside covered patio and a live band.  Then you had to walk to a special food bar and order and pick up your own food.  But it was definitely a bar that served food as a courtesy to its customers.  It had pork on a stick, steak on a stick, and chicken on a stick. They served a great ½ pound hamburger for 99 cents and best of all they served good iced peal-and-eat shrimp for $3.20 a dozen. 

Fast Eddies’s was truly a special place.  Then there was the long walk back.  I definitely had my exercise.  I think I was in bed by 6:00 p.m., reading through my closed eyelids.

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Thursday —- Illinois River MM 00 Grafton IL

September 9th, 2010 john

Day: 450   Miles Today: 00   Locks Today:  00   Total Miles:  5077   Total Locks: 141

We actually slept in this morning.  Then at about 10:30 a.m. we borrowed a courtesy car and drove about 25 miles over to Jerseyville and visited a Wal-Mart, to replenish some of our supplies. When we returned we had four more looper boats arrive.  It is good to see some of our friends.  The “Lady In Red” and “Mr Magoo” were two of the new arrivals.

I walked down town and mailed a letter at the post office and then found a barber shop. (I was much in need.)  Then I found a great little shop that specialized in Native American crafts and products.  I had a blast there, still doing my part to help the economy.

Back on the boat it was cigar time and I just relaxed.  We have been expecting heavy rains but according to our satellite weather on the Garmin, it looks like it all went just south of us.  We were planning on leaving in the morning and going to Alton.  We will check the weather in the morning and see what it looks like.

Ten of us walked down town to a little old hotel that has a famous wooden bar in it and a restaurant.  The bar was beautiful, the food was just ok.  (Can’t be a winner every time!)

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Wednesday —- Illinois River MM 20 Hardin IL Southbound

September 8th, 2010 john

Day: 449   Miles Today: 20   Locks Today:  00   Total Miles:  5077   Total Locks: 141

Well, we ate at Mel’s last night and it was great.  There were nine of us at dinner and they poured on the food.  We all came back to the boat with take home boxes.  And they had home made pies.  Good eating.   They even had a sugar free berry pie for me.    Uhmmm good!

Since it was to be a short day today we all decided to have breakfast at Mel’s  before we departed.  Again, it was way too much.  I was waddling back down to the boat after over eating. We departed as a group with the Emery El in the lead and had a very easy day running down the lower Illinois River.

Our target marina was at Grafton IL and it is at mile mark (MM) 00 on the Illinois River.  As we approached there were two cut through channels from the Mississippi River and the current really picked up.  The Emery El which is an 8.5 to 9.0 mph boat was doing 11 mph as we reached the marina.

The current was strong coming in but we compensated for it and made it safely into the harbor and tied up.  It is a very cute marina with a little general store at the center, a pool, and most important to me, a laundry facility.  I was just about down to the bottom of my clothes stack.  By the end of the day there were six looper boats in the marina so we had a party right on the dock and then went up stairs for some chicken wings and a light supper.

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Tuesday —- Illinois River MM 88 Beardstown Southbound

September 7th, 2010 john

Day: 448   Miles Today: 68   Locks Today:  01   Total Miles:  5057   Total Locks: 141

Up at 5:00 a.m. and waiting for first light.  This was planned to be about a 65 mile day with one lock.  Anytime you have a lock, you are unsure of your travel time.

As I was signing on to my computer waiting for first light, a towboat passed by heading south.  Since the lock was only 8 miles away I knew he would beat us to the lock and would have preference.  I followed him on the chart-plotter via my AIS system as he approached the lock and told my crew to stay in bed.  No use leaving at first light.

I also checked the web for the backlog at the lock and saw that when they started locking him through that he would make it through on one pass.  Everybody up!  It’s time to push off.  Another day and on our way!

The wind had died down and the morning was brisk but clear.  I called the lock when I was about two miles away and he had it ready for us to drive right in.  We had it to ourselves.  They closed the door and Jack the lock dog entertained us as we descended the eight feet.

Doors opened and we were running down stream with the current giving us a little push.

The day was uneventful.  All the low bridges were open and the only excitement was passing several upstream and downstream barges on the way.

There was a little car ferry in Kampsville IL that crossed right in front of us, but no problem.

A couple of days ago I was super impressed with the amount of water birds.  They were just lined up on the edge of the river for miles and miles.  It was like they were watching us parade down the river.  We even saw two bald eagles; one in flight landing on a limb of a tree and one sitting on his nest way at the top of the tallest tree.

But today it has been different.  There were not many birds at all.  The only thing we saw was an occasional Asian Carp jumping into the air.

At 2:00 p.m. we pulled into a little dock along side of the river.  It belongs to the Illinois Riverdock Restaurant; known to locals as Mel’s place.  We sat on the stern with a cigar and a beer enjoying the warn afternoon and the slight breeze.  About an hour after we arrived three of the other looper boats that were with us this morning pulled in.  We look forward to a good dinner at Mel’s.

It is starting to get sad for me.  We are getting close to home which is great, but the trip is coming to and end which is sad. (Maybe I will just keep on going and do it again.)  I did a real rough calculation and it looks like we will be home in a couple weeks.

We crossed the 5000 mile barrier today.  What a trip.

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Monday —- Illinois River MM 120 Tall Timbers Marina Southbound

September 6th, 2010 john

Day: 447   Miles Today: 32   Locks Today:  00   Total Miles:  4989   Total Locks: 140

We had a short day planned today so we did not have to leave early.  However, after we arrived at Tall Timbers, we had four other Looper boats come in and they were docked just behind us which would make it extra difficult for us to depart.

The forecast was for a windy day so when I awoke at dawn and the wind was not yet blowing, I decided it was time to try to make an exit.  I used my trick of the wheel to throw water at the turned rudder to make the back end of the boat move out sideways.  Again and again, and sure enough it worked.  We walked right out to about 50 degrees, straightened our rudders, backed up to the middle of the little harbor, then did a slow power turn with one engine forward and one engine in reverse and pivoted around in a circle to face the entrance to the harbor.  Then out we went starting a new day’s adventure.

By 10:30 a.m. we had reached our destination which was Beardstown Il.  There is no marina, no town docks, just a barge company on the river that allows you to tie up.  No water, no electricity.  Just a dollar a foot!

There is just no where else to stop so by the end of the day the other four boats had joined us on the barge. 

I went up and made friends with the barge company owner by asking him where the pool was?  He finally had to laugh.  Maggie, Gary and I walked up into the town of Beardstown about 5 blocks.  It was small but clean, with a town square.  Unfortunately like all small towns, many of the building were vacant.  And because it was Labor Day the ones that were not vacant were closed for the holiday.  The two pharmacies were closed, the café was closed.  The only place we could find was a little bar, with bikers and retired folk, which only served frozen pizzas.  Oh well!

Back to the boat to make an attempt to get this blog written, edited and pictures attached.  We will have dinner on board, run our generator to charge up the batteries and then retire for the evening.  We need another early start tomorrow for we have about 65 miles and one lock to pass.

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Sunday—- Illinois River MM 178 Hamm’s Holiday Marina Southbound

September 5th, 2010 john

Day: 446   Miles Today: 59   Locks Today:  01   Total Miles:  4957   Total Locks: 140

Last night we had dinner on the dock.  There were about 25 people of all ages, grandkids included.  We had lobster and shrimp and potatoes and corn and great deserts.  It was quite a feast.  Everyone was so friendly.  They have truly made this a great stop for us. It’s all about the people.  We finally had to retire to the boat at about 9:30 p.m. because it was going to be an early rise this morning.

I was up, dressed, with coffee in hand at the bridge at 5:00 a.m. waiting for first light.  The plan was to make a run for the Peoria Lock, which is only open on Sundays or at night due to construction.  If we get through the lock in a timely fashion we then have a long run to the first possible marina.  We are praying that we will not be held up at the lock.

As I waited I got onto the Internet.  I had found a web-site that listed all of the locks on the inner rivers system, listing all of the queued commercial traffic.  Upon displaying the information for the Peoria Lock, I found out that there were five towboats and loads waiting to go through.  Yow!  I called the lock master and he said that there were so many pleasure craft calling that he was going to try to do a special lock through for them.

At predawn we started the engines and eased out of the harbor into the river. It was eerie driving out of the harbor with all the old casino boats and paddle wheelers, barely able to see our way.  The sun had not risen but I could make out the buoys on the river. Of course we also had radar and the GPS navigational systems so we were fine. We were father up river then the other loopers so we had to make a run for it. We needed a head start.

We were off and running. 

As we passed through little towns with marinas we started to pick up more Looper boats behind us.  We pulled up to the lock and had to wait about two hours. I pulled under a highway bridge and dropped the anchor and just waited.  Finally, it was our turn.  Seven pleasure craft eased into the lock with smiles on their faces. 

We had a successful lock through. We had already done 20 miles this morning but we had another 40 to go.  The current helped us out a lot and we made 10 mph (speed made good) and were at our destination marina by mid afternoon. Four other Loopers followed us into the little marina.  It went from empty to full in 15 minutes.  We were the largest boat so they stuck us on a dock in the corner.  It was a great spot and easy to get in to.  It may be a different story getting back out.

On the way into the little embayment of the harbor the currents were strong.  The Emery El got shoved left and right and it took some brut engine force to get her back into the middle of the little channel.

We were at Tall Timbers Marina in Havana, IL.  It was small but cute; the dock-master very friendly.  It had very clean showers and bathroom.  After meeting several of the locals and giving some more tours of the Emery El, we walked about 5 blocks into the little town.  The only thing that was open was a Dollar General store and a new very little Mexican restaurant.  We decided that we would choose Mexican for dinner and entered.

The waiters barely spoke English and we could not pronounce the name of the restaurant but the food was excellent.  We all enjoyed our meals.  It was a bit of a trial paying our bill.  They did not speak English and they also must have failed math.  It took four tries and two runs of credit cards to get it right.  (Their first run was for $14.00 and you know that is not right for three people with drinks.)

Back to the boat and to the top deck with a scotch, a good cigar, and Kenny G softly playing on the top-deck speakers.  What a way to wind down a good day, overlooking the sleepy harbor.

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